The year is 1996. I am in the Argentine Andes near Bariloche after hiking Torres de Paine, the Rio Simpson and the island of Chiloe---all in Chile. Behind to my left is Mount Tronador. My 5 day route took me behind that little lake to my right. The lake is one long day away. I am overlooking Laguna Negra, smiling as I contemplate the beer, chocolate and pizza in Bariloche only one day away. I weigh 150 pounds; I can afford it.